Wednesday, 24 February 2016

Monday, 22 February 2016

Eleko Motor Race - Off road beach racing like never seen before.

Who woulda thunk?  😍




On the 20th of February 2016 (Saturday it was) - The Eleko motor-race took place at the infamous Eleko Beach.

Like-minded individuals gathered on the white sands to use the platform of motorsport to enhance knowledge of automobile science, engineering and educate the general public as to the automotive potential of everyday off-road cars and SUVs, as well as specially-modified/created racing vehicles. The next event is scheduled to hold sometime in june and with this the Eleko Motor Race hope to establish a framework for the growth of motorsport in Nigeria.
 In co-ordination and with the full support of local community and their leaders in Eleko, the Eleko Motor Race has been able to host mixed rally events with rally stages on public roads and dirt-tracks, and time trials on Eleko Beach and Igando. The events, featuring a variety of surfaces including asphalt, gravel, sand and red dirt, have been designed and set up to highlight the variety of condition faced by Nigerians, and showcase the vehicles (and their features) which are best suited for the climate. The events also focus on the driving skills of the racers (including driving safety) and their ability to deal with the varied conditions they face.
The first race was held at the end of 2014, and a couple of other events in 2015. The last event was held on the 20th of February 2016 and featured various teams and drivers. 
Through these events, the organizers of Eleko Motor Race have been able to steadily raise the profile of motorsport in Nigeria and attract the interest and support from international organizations, like the FIA (and the FIA Action for Road Safety), as well as sponsorship from automotive and lifestyle brands like OMP and Sick Rabbit. To put it simply, Eleko Motor Race can be seen as a major step towards re-energizing and rejuvenating Nigerian motorsport culture and legacy.


Watch this space for information about future events....

Friday, 19 February 2016

9 bike noises that mean you must take action

Simple sounds that need checking out before they turn into something serious



1. Gurgling

Does your motor sound like Homer Simpson’s guts after a night on the Duff? Time for a look at your cooling system. Coolant should circulate silently. Firstly, check the level, any drop indicates an issue. If there’s an air pocket, the pump won’t be able to circulate coolant properly, and it can froth around and boil if it can’t circulate away from hot spots. Top it up – if it drops again you may have a leaking seal or gasket. Bubbling coolant, or coolant being forced into the header tank too readily, may indicate a blown head gasket or another overheating problem that needs investigation.


2. Sudden ticking

Does it sound like there’s a bag of stopwatches under the tank? Start at the exhaust headers, especially if they’re old, or have recently been fitted/disturbed. A small gap in the manifold seal, a loose header collar or a small hole opening up in rusty pipes can result in a ticking sound. It’s best checked when cold – you might see a bit of steam issuing or water dribbling out in the first few seconds, and you can hold a hand close to feel for escaping gas without getting burnt.


3. Variable ticking

If your exhaust is nice and sealed, and you’ve got a tick that drops off as the bike warms but rises with revs, check when your valve clearances were last inspected, and if they’re due have them looked at. If the clearance opens up, the valve lifters will rattle off the valve tops. It’s not immediately catastrophic, but very loose valves cost performance, and will eventually put too much strain on the top end. A stethoscope can help you narrow noises down to a certain area.


4. Clattering and slapping

If you’ve got a clattering that’s most prevalent at tickover, or off the throttle, your camchain (or tensioner) might be at the end of its days. Just like a drive chain, they stretch and reach a wear limit that the tensioner can’t compensate for, or some bikes can suffer with camchain tensioners fatiguing. Either way, the chain can flap and cause noise. It’s in danger of skipping a tooth – at best, performance suffers . It’s often worse – valve timing goes out, and valves/pistons can meet.


5. Drive chain din

Got a whirring, high-frequency metallic noise that doesn’t seem related to engine speed? Look to your drive chain. A healthy chain is noisy anyway, but you shouldn’t be able to hear it yourself while you’re riding along. A vibration or clanking (sometimes felt though footpegs too) signifies tight spots or stiff links. You should thoroughly clean your chain and inspect for stuck links, loose rollers and excess stretch. If that’s all OK, make sure it’s properly aligned and adjusted. Lubricate with decent lube on the inside run first, preferably when the chain is warm. If you find any tight spots, stiff links or have run out of adjustment then the time has come to ditch the chain and invest in a fresher (quieter) new one.


6. Knocking

A solid-sounding knocking emanating from deep in the motor is very bad news and is usually related to the engine’s bottom end — the crankshaft and conrods. Worn big-end shells and collapsed bearings can and will seize your engine if they expire as you’re riding along. As soon as you hear anything metallically clunky coming from the motor, hit the kill switch, come to a safe stop, and prepare for serious investigation. And probably a serious repair bill. Don’t try and clear it by revving it harder, it won’t magically improve things, it’s definitely not that sort of problem. Unless you are a competent spannerman, this is one for your local dealer.


7. Backfiring/popping

Some bikes crackle a bit on the overrun, but big bangs and constant popping isn’t normal. Check the exhaust joins for gaps – leaking gas, if it’s not immediately obvious, is often betrayed by little carbon deposits, or condensation dripping as it warms up. In any case, some expert dyno time can help get to the root of improper running.


8. In-gear whining

Whining under load usually signifies a gearbox issue. If it’s only doing it in one or two gears, it’s probably isolated wear – gears work in pairs and a problem in one gear often makes itself known in another. If it whines through every ratio, suspect a gearbox bearing is worn and causing the shafts to run out of alignment.


9. Braking knock

Noise when braking? There are three possibilities: your calipers have an anti-rattle plate and if it’s incorrectly fitted the pads can move around. If all is OK there, lift the front end off the floor and feel for play in the head bearings; a small amount of movement is enough to make a noise. Finally, check your forks – worn internals can result in a knocking noise too.



Culled from Motorcycle News

Wednesday, 17 February 2016

BMW reveals Iconic 100 special editions




BMW has announced the release of Four limited edition models to celebrate 100 years since the beginning of Bayerische Motoren Werke AG in 1916. 

They are BMW R1200RT, R1200RS, R1200GS and R1200GS Adventure all get limited edition paint schemes and will be limited to just 100 examples. The RT will be available in Candy Burgundy Smoked Effect (shivers), inspired by the R100RT from the 1970s. 
Both GS model paint schemes are inspired by past BMW Dakar bikes and both come with red diamond-stitched seats. 
The RS will be available in Black/Silver Smoke Effect, inspired by the 1976 R90S. Full details of the changes: 

R1200GS Iconic 
Based on the R 1200 GS TE Alpine 
Custom Paint Work (Rallye Styling) inspired by 1980s Dakar models 
Black Diamond Stitched Red Seat with Embossed Iconic 100 Logo 
Gear Shift Assist Pro Cross Spoke Wheels 
£16,790 OTR 

R1200GS Adventure Iconic 
Based on the R 1200 GS Adventure TE 
Custom Paint Work (Rallye Styling) inspired by 1980s Dakar models
Black Diamond Stitched Red Seat with Embossed Iconic 100 Logo
Gear Shift Assist ProBlack Powder Coating – Crash Bars / Luggage Carrier / Heel Plates 
£17,910 OTR 

R1200RS Iconic 
Based on the R 1200 RS Sport SE 
Custom Paint Work (Black/Silver Smoke Effect with Red/Champagne Style lines) inspired by the 'Smoke Grey' 1976 R 90 S 
Red Stitched Black Seat with Embossed Iconic 100 Logo 
Gold Forks / Calipers 
£14,997 OTR 

R1200RT Iconic 
Based on the R 1200 RT LE 
Custom Paint Work (Candy Burgundy Smoked Effect) inspired by the 'Lava Rot' R 100 RT from the 1970s 
Red Stitched Black Seat with Embossed Iconic 100 Logo 
Audio System Dynamic Package (Hill Start Control, Headlight Pro, Riding Mode Pro and Daytime Riding Lights) Top Box 
£20,645 OTR 

These bikes were on display at last weekend's Carole Nash MCN London Motorcycle Show. 

Tuesday, 16 February 2016

Choosing Your Motorcycle...



I’m a new rider. What kind of motorcycle should I get?

As a newbie, the common wisdom -in this part of the world- would be that you buy a used bike depending on what you can afford. A “naked” standard bike -one without expensive fairings- won’t suffer much damage when you drop it. When you have a year or two of experience, then you’ll know more about what kinds of motorcycles there are, how you ride, and what you really want.


What are the advantages and disadvantages of shaft drive and chain drive?

Chain Drive is light, highly efficient, inexpensive, and allows you to relatively easily change your motorcycle’s final drive ratio. However, it requires regular lubrication, cleaning, and tension adjustment.
Shaft drive is heavier, almost but not quite as efficient, somewhat expensive, and makes it impractical to change the final drive ratio. However, the maintenance intervals are much farther apart.


Should I get a motorcycle with ABS? Can’t a skilled rider stop faster than ABS?

A skilled rider on dry pavement, yes. But in the wet, things are different and the ABS might not as nifty as expected.


So what kind of motorcycle should I get as a first bike?

Here are some suggestions. This is not an all-encompassing list. I would recommend against a big Harley-Davidson or BMW, or any sportbike above 600cc. If you’re small, get a small bike; if you’re big, you may get away with starting out on a bigger bike. The weight between your legs takes some getting used to.

Suzuki GS500F, or SV650/SV650s,
BMW F650 GS, airhead R-bike, or K75
Ducati Monster 696
Honda Nighthawk, Hawk, or CB-1
Kawasaki Ninja 500R
Yamaha FZ6R

My 2 cents...

Welcome to our first blog post: Writing; for the ride of it!






First things first; WELCOME!


This is our brand new blog (all shiny and shit). Here you will find news and blog posts about everything bikers are up to within the Lagos metropolis, from general information to bike courses available to events, news, bike info, rider gear, rider safety and of course beautiful destinations and routes to indulge in.If you’re reading this then it is most likely that you are either a) a veteran rider with a lotta miles under your belt, b) a fairly new rider with a couple of miles(& bikes) to show for it, c) a complete beginner with your first bike, first gear and first fall or d) decent young man or woman looking for a way to start riding and experiencing life on two wheels.

Either ways, we welcome you with arms wide open..

On this blog there will be an eclectic collection of information, reviews and funny stories to celebrate all that it is to be a motorcyclist. If you wish to be a guest contributor or own a column, feel free to contact me on bikers.oflagos@yahoo.com.

I’ve had the pleasure and the privilege over the past few months, of meeting some of the most interesting people through riding motorcycles. To tour across borders on a motorcycle has to be part of one of the great spiritual experiences on this planet. Because on a motorcycle you are ‘out there’.

Once again; Welcome.

BOL team

#ForTheRideOfIt